Chinese Coffee Guide

It’s fair to argue that China has long been overlooked when it comes to growing coffee. Given its rich history and culture in the production and ceremony of tea, you’d be forgiven for not naming China first in countries renowned for coffee production. Yet, thanks to its climate, terroir, and geography, China’s been laying down roots for successful coffee cultivation for over a century. What started as a government drive to boost the industry has matured into a knowledgeable and conscientious steer toward the speciality coffee scene—and with good reason.

Read on to discover the history and process of Chinese coffee production — and why China’s coffee is keenly on our radar, and in our cups.

It’s not quite as fanciful as Ethiopia’s origin claim over coffee, but French missionaries first brought coffee plants to China in the late 1800s, predominately planting in Yunnan, the most southwestern province, which benefits from the Tropic of Cancer running though the south.

China’s coffee growth didn’t cause much of a stir until the 90s when big companies, such as Nestlé and Starbucks, began investing. Today, coffee is cultivated across 120,000 hectares — still small-talk when you consider tea’s claim to over 3 million hectares of land.

Today, coffee consumption and production in China is evolving, triggered by a younger generation of around 400 million millennials driving demand for the product. Influenced by the larger coffee landscape, China’s youth are increasingly seeking barista made café-quality coffee rather than homemade instant. As a result, coffee in China is evolving from a once-in-a-while luxury good to a must-have daily ritual. Enter, the burgeoning speciality coffee scene, and the world stage.

Thanks to Yunnan’s distinct wet and dry seasons and the temperate climate, the region is home to 95 percent of all coffee grown in China, with the province sharing some of the same favourable characteristics that aid producers in South America and Africa. While there are around 30 different varietals grown in China, Catimor is by far the most widely cultivated: it’s robust, resistant to leaf rust and weather fluctuations, and produces high yield results. Despite its mixed reputation for quality, Catimor is capable of producing exceptional coffees.

Typically, harvest is between December and March, and is mostly handpicked, with farms relying on household labour. Traditionally, coffees have been harvested and sold with very little attention applied to lot identification and traceability, but this is changing as speciality coffee evolves in the region. More farms are focusing on speciality coffee production and seeking organic certification. An obvious reason for this new direction is as a bid to increase income, but from our experience of working with farmers and producers in China, it’s clear, too, that their interest is more than monetary gain — it’s a pride and passion for their coffee, and for their workers and the community.

Most coffee is traded, milled, and shipped between December and May. As much of the region can be humid during wet season, coffee that needs to be stored will be transported to the capital of Yunnan province and the hub of exporting, Kumming. Most producers have their own wet processing facilities; if not, they will sell to middlemen who then sell onto wet mills or add value by processing themselves.

Washed processing remains the most common approach in Yunnan, while natural processing is often reserved for the first harvest of the season. As interest in speciality coffee continues to grow across China and internationally, producers are increasingly exploring alternative processing methods to highlight flavour and expand the profile of Chinese coffee.

We've had the pleasure of working with producers who are committed to showcasing the diversity and potential of their coffees. Alongside traditional washed lots, natural and honey processed coffees are revealing a different side of Yunnan, with notes of plum, peach and stewed berries. While coffee production in China is relatively young compared to many established origins, the country's commitment to quality, innovation and continuous improvement points to an exciting future.

While flavour profiles vary depending on variety, altitude and processing method, coffees from Yunnan often display notes of stone fruit, citrus and milk chocolate, complemented by a smooth body and gentle acidity. Washed coffees tend to emphasise clean, delicate and bright flavours, while natural and honey processed lots can reveal richer characteristics of plum, peach and stewed berries.

As Chinese producers continue to experiment with cultivation and processing techniques, the range of flavours emerging from China is becoming increasingly diverse. There’s now a growing commitment to showcase the region’s unique terroir through carefully produced speciality coffees that challenge outdated perceptions of Chinese coffee. Whether enjoyed as filter or espresso, Chinese coffees offer a balanced and approachable cup with plenty of complexity to explore. Chinese coffees offer a balanced and approachable cup with plenty of complexity to explore.